JAPAN Design Resource Database

02

Database / I I I I

Design Resources: Digital Archive

  • Indoor wear for export

Holdings Classification (Registered Name)

Indoor wear for export

Indoor wear for export

Category
  • #Fashion
Year of Production (First Edition)

1906

Release Year

1906

Designer

Iida Takashimaya

Manufacturer

Iida Takashimaya

Dimensions

W147 × H162 mm

Materials and Techniques

Gray silk plain weave. Embroidery of a peacock perched on a cherry tree. Braided cords and tassels at the cuffs. Pink silk tassels. Lined with habutae.

Design Registration Number

Unclear

Portrait and Publicity Rights Holder

Not Applicable

Copyright Registration Number

Unclear

Inquiries

KCI The Kyoto Costume Institute. Curatorial Division

Data Source

3-4: Based on KCI research
5-6: Product label S.Iida “TAKASHIMAYA” SILKS & EMBROIERIES. KYOTO
9: Identification of KCI
10-11: “Fashion and Art: Beautiful East-West Exchange” Exhibition Catalog Work Commentary (Yokohama Museum of Art, April 15, 2017 (Sat) – June 25, 2017 (Sun))

During the Meiji period, kimonos were exported to the European and American markets as indoor wear.

Description

This kimono was exported to the Western market as a fashionable indoor wear. The bold embroidery of cherry blossoms and peacocks, the gussets fitted into the sides, the body gently widening toward the hem, and the curved collar were all arranged for the Western market. Iida Takashimaya, the predecessor of Takashimaya, was a major kimono store in the Meiji period, and had been actively engaged in trade since the end of the 19th century.
The peacock, an exotic bird, often appeared as a motif in Japanese arts and crafts and was associated with Japan in the West. There is an ancient record that the peacock was donated to Emperor Suiko by Silla in 589, and thereafter it was often imported and hung in showrooms as a rare animal. Kimonos with peacock patterns have been seen since the early Edo period, especially in genre paintings of the late Edo period. In his “Peacock Room,” the artist Whistler painted peacocks on the walls, and above the fireplace, a female figure in a kimono, “Rose and Silver: Princess of the Ceramic Country” (1863-64, Freer Gallery of Art), is displayed.

[Photo: ©The Kyoto Costume Institute]